Following up on the somber note of Glaser’s Bake Shop’s closure, we turn to another New York City institution that has sadly served its last customers: Ben’s Best Deli. This classic kosher “Benz Deli,” a beloved staple in Rego Park, Queens, for an incredible 73 years, has closed its doors, marking another poignant moment in the city’s evolving culinary landscape.
Unlike Glaser’s, Ben’s Best’s closing is attributed to the harsh realities of dwindling business. Jay Parker, the owner and son of Ben, who established this iconic kosher deli back in 1945, points to a significant downturn in customer traffic since the neighborhood’s bike lane installations. These installations, while beneficial for cyclists, unfortunately eliminated nearly 200 parking spaces, impacting local businesses like Ben’s Best that relied on customers from across the boroughs.
This closure is a stark reminder of the ongoing decline of the traditional NYC deli, a trend that has unfolded over the past couple of decades. Ironically, this period has also witnessed the rise of the “nouveau deli,” establishments often more focused on trendy, non-traditional offerings than the authentic deli experience. But that’s a discussion for another time.
Once upon a time, New York City was a haven for deli lovers, boasting an astonishing 1,500 kosher and kosher-style delis, according to reports. The Lower East Side alone was home to a staggering 750 kosher delis at its peak. Today, a mere handful remain, making each closure feel like a deeper cut into the city’s cultural fabric.
My own family holds a deep appreciation for the classic deli, and Ben’s Best was a destination we frequented over the years. I have fond memories of joining them on trips to Rego Park, often making it a pre-show ritual before catching a performance at Forest Hills Stadium. These visits were always a treat, a taste of authentic New York culinary history.
Ben’s Best was the epitome of an old-school, no-frills establishment. Its reputation was built on serving classic kosher deli fare – the comforting and timeless dishes like pastrami on rye, matzah ball soup, and all the beloved basics. While my personal dietary preferences lean away from meat, I’ve heard from numerous sources that their pastrami was truly exceptional, a testament to their commitment to quality and tradition.
My personal favorite at Ben’s Best was the egg barley with mushrooms, a dish that was consistently outstanding. Perhaps its richness came from a generous hand with oil – certainly more than I’d use at home! Their knishes were another reliable delight. On my last visit, venturing slightly outside my usual choices, I sampled the noodle kugel. While it was perfectly acceptable, it didn’t quite reach the heights of their other offerings. And of course, no deli experience is complete without a Dr. Brown’s Diet Black Cherry soda. While delis aren’t typically celebrated for their desserts, we rounded off our meals with a classic black-and-white cookie and a slice of seven-layer cake, simple and satisfying endnotes to a quintessential deli meal.
Much like the closing of Glaser’s, the loss of Ben’s Best resonates deeply, even if every single item on the menu wasn’t a culinary masterpiece. These establishments are more than just places to eat; they are vital threads in the city’s cultural tapestry. Even if the deli’s prominence in NYC’s contemporary food scene, or in American Jewish culture as a whole, isn’t what it once was, it remains an indelible part of history. Visiting Ben’s Best was always akin to stepping into a living museum, experiencing a piece of that rich heritage firsthand.
The disheartening closure of Ben’s Best only strengthens my resolve to actively support the remaining delis in the city. If you, too, have a local deli you cherish, I urge you to do the same. These are irreplaceable gems that deserve our patronage.
Currently, my go-to deli in NYC is Liebman’s Deli in Riverdale, Bronx. It’s a bit of a trek, but its cozy, welcoming atmosphere and surprisingly diverse menu make it worthwhile. For those who, like me, appreciate a good deli beyond just the sandwiches, Liebman’s offers an unexpectedly delicious falafel plate, complete with wonderfully fluffy fresh pita bread. It’s a testament to how these enduring establishments can adapt and cater to evolving tastes while still preserving the heart of the deli tradition.
